Route 90 is the longest Israel and Palestinian road, at about 480 kilometres (300 mi), and stretches from Metulla and the northern border with Lebanon, along the western side of the Sea of Galilee,through the Jordan Ricer Valley, along the western bank of the Dead Sea (making it the world’s lowest road), through the Araban valley, and until Eilat and the southern border with Egypt on the Red Sea.

I have never had any safety concerns until one particular statement on a post caught my eye: “在公路上，若不幸遭到恐攻，以色列政府也會賠償的” as we are driving in the darkness – 4am in the morning with poor visibility, my heart was rising until the first sight of Dead Sea in early dawn.

Dead Sea at dawn

The moment I saw the first ray of sun breaks through the cloud and has risen over the Jordanian mountains, I cried, felt and knew where the heaven is.

Masada shall not fall again

This ancient city was built by “Jonathan the High priest”, at least according to Josephus. It was ruled by King Herod, who was the King of Judea. It was an ancient Roman style fortress. It features not just the palace, main fortress and living quarters but camps by the base and an assault ramp. It is believed to be the most complete surviving ancient Roman siege system in the world.

What happened here – mass suicide: Masada was the last remaining Jewish rebel stronghold in Judea in the year 73 AD. When the Romans with their 8000 troops building camps all around the base of the mountain. One of the Jewish leaders, Eleazar Ben Yair gave speeches to the 960 people living on Masada and told them that suicide was the way forward. When the Romans came to the top these were two women and five children, who had been hiding in the cisterns. Everyone else was dead. A sad and chilling story, hard to imagine over this ruined ancient fortification, but the legacy remains in the Israeli army with the declaration “Masada shall not fall again”.

I am actually floating in the Dead Sea

Yes yes, I am actually floating and the sea water is incredible salty – verified.

Eilat is where Israelis come to relax

We finally arrived Eilat, the southern border city with Egypt and Jordan on the Red Sea. Tiring tiring tiring, it is just a transit city!

Looking forward to the next phase of this trip: Jordan

The Sea of Galilee, which is in fact a lake has so much to offer: pristine beauty, hiking trails, religious attractions, and historical sites.

Our first stop: the Mount of Beatitudes, site of the Sermon on the Mount. Followed by the site of the Feeding of the 5000; Tabgha and the German Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and the Fish. And the Primacy of St Peter. Amazingly I am at the places where those events occurred and those are no longer just stories from my year and half bible study. If you asked me any reflections, to be honestly there was only the amazements of the Churches art value.

Those three places are the must go to places of Galilee’s religious tour. We were surrounded by many devout believers around the worlds and they are also part of the scene at least in our eyes.

We still have two more Christian sites on the list. But in between we headed to the Arbel National Park. Well it has the two elements we enjoy namely hike and the stunning view. Plus the bonus of a glimpse of history: fortress and caves actually on the cliffs. Tiring but rewarding!

Then we rushed to the Mt Tabor. At 1,900 feet above sea level, Mount Tabor (also called Mount Tavor) is believed to be the site of the transfiguration, when according to the Gospels of Mark, Matthew and Luke, Jesus took the disciples Peter, James and John to see an apparition of Moses and Elijah.

The last site is Yardenit– Here, where the Jordan River flows from the Sea of Galilee southwards to the Dead Sea, it is believed that Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist (“Yardenit” is the diminutive form of the name of the Jordan River in Hebrew). Standing on the shore watching scores of pilgrims wear white robes and get baptised in the same spot. Maybe the warmth of afternoon sun, maybe the atmosphere of spirituality, I somehow connected to the holy land – being happy by focusing on the eternal life, therefore so called hardship in this life becomes less important. Yes on this spot I can feel the happiness from sisters and brothers!

It is a such busy day packed with spiritual experience and fun. To finish with famous St. Peter’s fish, delicious lamb Kabab and a great variety of side dishes, today is the day!

Don’t be wise in your own eyes; fear the LORD and shun evil. Proverbs 3:7

Stop 1: Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_Orthodox_Church_of_the_Annunciation

https://www.goarch.org/-/tradition-in-the-orthodox-church

http://www.nazarethinfo.org/en/attractions/religious-sites/greek-orthodox-announciation-church

The church has three names, each of which gives us a different piece of information about it.

Mary’s Well Church and St. Gabriel Church

Gabriel is the angel who told Mary that she was carrying the son of God. In the church, a spring flows, giving it the name Mary’s Well Church (the water flows underground from the church to a well 140 meters away from the church).

Orthodox Church of Annunciation

Its main name comes from a tradition that the James was the brother of Jesus from the first marriage of Joseph. He was the leader of Jerusalem’s community of the followers of Jesus, and therefore is considered to be the first bishop of Jerusalem. In the Gospel of James it is relayed that the angel Gabriel blessed Mary at the well, but she was frightened and ran home. Here he announced that she was carrying the son of God.

At the spot where Gabriel meets Mary, there stands the Orthodox church, and at spot of her house stands the Catholic Church. These two Churches are very different from one another: statues versus icon paintings on the wall; visible altar and hidden behind a wall with icons.

I think I must be culturally overwhelmed on the scene and only right now – quite time before bed can reflect and appreciate the traditions.

Stop 2: The Mary of Nazareth international Centre

Picture the everyday life of Mary and Jesus plus the tranquil Chapel to worship and meditate the mystery of Salvation.

Stop 3: Sea of Galiliee first encounter Capharnaum the town of Jesus

This place is the first church in the world and is the house of Peter. Here Jesus said to Peter, “I will also say to you: You are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of hell will not be strengthened.”

Akko old city – wonderful place with extremely rich history and amazing vibe

Old City of Acre was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. https://www.touristisrael.com/akko-acre-israel/1123/When I saw a picture of old Acre walls from sea two months ago I knew instantly this is the must visit place!

Narrow winding lanes capped with arches remembering Crusaders times, the Old Town surrounded by the impressive wall, the harbor with colorful boats, the busy local souq – Akko brought us the first wow factor for the day.

It is the place not only concerning knights but life in the city.

Nazareth 1 – Basilica of the Annunciation

The Church of Annunciation is built where it’s believed the angel Gabriel announced the news from God, that the Virgin Mary was pregnant with His son. Standing in this largest church building in the Middle East and watching over the cave that Mary had lived I was thinking two questions, was it all true and why the shrine has to be this magnificent.

Well latterly the on-site archeological museum curator Edward – a Nazareth born humble believer answered my questions by simply said “believe without seeing” and showed me the “Hail Mary” Greek graffiti. He told me that current Church constructed in 1969 over the site of an earlier Byzantine-era and then Crusader-era church. Underneath was the first shrine built sometime in the middle of the 4th century followed by a larger structure was commissioned by Emperor Constantine I who had directed his mother, Saint Helena.

After talking to Edward I somehow thought “The Word was made flesh, and dwelt among us” (John 1:14). Human nature as opposed to the divine, and material nature as opposed to the spiritual, and for this reason we human unavoidable live in this paradox.

Driving Etiquette – Israel

Driving was pretty damn hard – among its violent and often destructive drivers and opposite direction compared to NZ, we have to pay an extra attention. Few close calls but safely arrived in Haifa.

Haifa – 法海是個很欠兒的和尚，海法是個很破的城市

A little bit disappointed by its almost everywhere uncovered rubbish stations and everywhere rubbish. It is Israel third largest city, a busy working port where Jews and Arabs live in relative harmony, and one of the centers of the nation’s renowned high-technology industries – Haifa residents are proud of their industrious image.

We visited some have to visiting places such as Baha’i Gardens and Mount Carmel. There must be the jet lag and unavoidable long haul flight fatigue, the scenery in our eyes is okay but definitely lack of wow factor.

The wow factor for the day must be my first shisha experience and delicious lamb kebab.

Hope fast jet lag recovery and full of wow factors amazements within next day’s itinerary.

Day 1 Wellington Auckland Bangkok Tel Aviv

It is a long day and it is a long way, two 12 hours long haul flights are tiring but it is a treasure to a dedicated “NZ public servant” who only slept less than 9 hours in the past two days. John said I was in sleep coma and yes I slept more than 15 hours. Well here I am 30000 feet above Red Sea writing my day 1 doodles and about 2 hours to the holy land.

Highlight 1: 1st Israel encounter – it is not just an airline it is Israel

We have been thoroughly investigated by an Israel security officer when we were in the transfer counter in Bangkok. Or precisely saying we have been thoroughly and separately investigated by a stern Israel security officer and his not so strict colleague for about 20 minutes. One mid-aged couple from somewhere very near Tel Aviv city centre were standing right behind us, they were irritated by the officers questions and not so friendly manner. They apologised to us on behalf of their people and provided their contact number in Israel, told us if whenever we need help just give them a call. Thanks Ilan and Judy.

Highlight 2: 1st Israel meal – with certification of kashruth

Flight meal with certification, simple but very refreshing.

Satisfied stomach and refreshed mind, I think I am ready for the must be wonderful holiday!

May it be thy will, Load of heaven and Earth, to lead us to peace and safety. To fly us to our desired destination, to find life, joy and peace. Amen

Melbourne day 2 – A self guided walking tour full of surprises

“We must not cease from exploration and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time.”– T.S. Elliot

6 places 7 hours was my day 2 itinerary. Well, I visited 4 places on the list plus couple of lovely surprises. The lovely surprises made my day. As I searched online afterwards, I learned some of these lovely surprises together with other covert hives in the city are called laneways. If we ask anybody why they love Melbourne and they will probably respond with “the laneways”. It is one of Melbourne’s most prominent features, something that sets it apart from any other Australien city. Why? Because the laneways are a clever re-invention of some of the grittiest parts of the city.

The laneways are not actively promoted in the city, a set of open and curious eyes and a thirst for the unknown are needed.

Flinders Lane

It just next to my hotel. There are many historical buildings and most of them are well preserved from redevelopment. Must be the soho atmosphere and chic buildings, it is just very European.

Hosier Lane

Lovely surprise. The dizzying array of colours, characters and creative shapes, Hosier Lane is like the canvas of the city or the whole nation. It attracts the artists around the globe, I watched a girl studied the paints carefully even used the ruler for measurements. The lady works at Movida – one of city’s best tapa restaurants sitting in the outside chair for a cigarette, and she somehow contrarily immersed into this colourful mayhem of the street art.

Carlton gardens

After two hours in the Melbourne Museum, I deliberately leave the Royal exhibition to the next time. As a visitor I love the city and definitely will go back again. Dramatic tree-lined avenues, a majestic fountain, formal flowerbeds and miniature lakes. The garden just plain beauty. I envy the locals who can leisurely relax there.

State Library of Victoria

Unlike plain beauty, a Melbourne landmark and cultural icon, the State Library is a magnificent 19th-century building with some of the city’s most beautiful heritage interiors. The “cathedral” reading room – the glass dome, 6 storeys with balconies and arches, the wooden chairs and benches with garnished green lamps. It is another triumph for Sir John Monash. The Shakespeare window on the 5th floor portrays a thoughtful Shakespeare with depiction of the “seven ages of man”. And above it all, the exhibitions showcasing the stories of Victoria and its people. This library just has so much to offer, to the locals, to the tourists……one way or another, we all have our desires to know the world – to see it, to classify it and to make sense of it.

Day 2 was packed but fulfilled in the maze of laneways and fairytale buildings . Now I am sitting on the train to Glen Waverley catching up with an old friend.

Sydney or Melbourne, Melbourne or Sydney?

There is still a bit of a feud going on when it comes to which Australian city is “better” in some way or the other.

I only had couple of short visits in Sydney but never in Melbourne. Which city is better? En, visiting Melbourne is the first step.

My first impression: Melbourne has a more sophisticated feel to it, with a European looking city centre that is dominated by its famous trams and the colonial-style buildings. By comparison, Sydney CBD is bleak, boring and lifeless.

Melbourne coffee or Wellington coffee?

I still vividly remember how desperately I missed Wellington’s coffee after three weeks in Europe. As a Wellingtonian, I can proudly say Wellington’s coffee is the best and Wellington’s coffee culture is unstoppable.

When my hotel concierge gave me his word that I won’t regret the coffee place he recommended this morning, I doubted and told him I am from Wellington……well the truth is the coffee is an A- 75 out of 100 together with the cafe’s little quaint spot, my brunch was fairly enjoyable.

19th century, 20 century and contemporary Australian Art?

Call me lack of imagination or no sense of “Art” i can’t appreciate the beauty of Gareth Sansom contemporary art exhibition: transformer. Only I can see is the radical, black humour and naughty pleasures. By the way, who can tell me what heck is “gotterdamerungerdungerdumbergungerdung” and how to pronounce it?

However I throughly enjoyed the Australian colonial art and Australian Impressionist art. Art originates from life. I learned some contextual influences through those pieces. And only because it is more artificial than life therefore two hours is plenty of time there.

Why Yarra River is so muddy?

Melbourne, however, is not a city with a strong beach culture. Maybe I should say it is a city with strong riverside culture. Countless restaurants, cafes and pubs along the riverside.

But why the river is so “dirty”? I wondered in the afternoon and now has an answer. The muddy brown colour is caused by the easily eroded clay soils of its catchment area (wiki explanation). The presence of clay particles however is not a major factor in the pollution of the river.

What I don’t like about Melbourne so far?

People often say there are four seasons in a day in Melbourne, and this is probably one of the most striking characteristics of this city.

I didn’t experience the four seasons today but two with torrential rain in the evening! What I am going to pack next time: an umbrella. It is going to be very difficult for a Wellingtonian for sure!

Full schedule ahead of us today……

Otago museum

We started at Otago museum. Lucky or not we saw the face of 2400yo mummy. The museum only revealed the face to the public couple of days ago. Researchers used CT scans and X-rays to provide better detailed views to develop a clay reconstruction. I am amazed at the wonders of technology but terrified by looking directly to the mummy.  The museum is a typical municipal museum and didn’t take us long to view all the gallery displays and exhibitions. Pheebs is a such interesting companion, she was not only wondering heaps questions to herself also told me she became a grandma Phoebe and started paying close attention to the plants, flowers and shrubs for her gardening project like the orderlies.

Larnach Castle

Well Grandma Pheebs, it is a castle time now.  We managed to navigate through Dunedin and drive up rather steep hill up to the Larnach Castle – New Zealand’s only castle built in 1871. The ballroom cafe is an outward show and no further comments on its foods. The tragic stories of Larnach family got me congested to start. But the first floor was spectacular, luckily we hired audio tour guide and learnt bit more information about the family and the building itself. Well with the rains and thunderstorms in between we didn’t really spend much time outside and obviously missed the few wows if visiting in the hot summer days.

Getting close to the world largest seabirds

Phoebe and I are looking forward meeting Albatrosses and Little blue penguins. Highly recommended activities!!! The place we are going to visit these lovely and intelligent creatures is right on the end of Otago Peninsula at a place called Taiaroa Head, is the world’s only mainland royal albatross colony.

Our guide for the royal albatross tour took us to a video room and introduced the fascinating life of the northern royal albatross: the connection between breeding pairs – how they can be apart for a whole year circling Antarctica, travelling 1,000km a day, to land back on Taiaroa Head within days of each other; the commitment and the shared responsibilities: both parents take it in turns to gather food over a few days to feed their chick (and themselves) while the other one nests on the vulnerable chick; the patient process – the process is so tough that the birds have a year off between breeding. This intelligent bird is more advanced than us humans. The nobility builds in their blood. Our guide took us into a viewing room build into the headland. Through the narrow window we saw handful albatrosses, some nesting, a pair teasing each other, few hovering. We didn’t get chance to see the only one baby chick in the area. We were viewing them pretty much close to the taking off season.

Little blue penguin time

8:00pm it is starting to get dark which means little blue penguin time!!! Little blue penguin is the world’s smallest penguin. When the sun goes down, a colony of blue penguins land on Pilot Beach after a hard day fishing or having fun in the ocean. I had my hesitation to head down to the beach because of the heavy downpour of rain to start with. With the rain, the waiting…… I prayed: give us little blue penguins, please please until our guide said look, from the darker colour of seawater she told us be ready to welcome the first group. Yes, dozen of penguins pop out from the water and

start profusely waddling across the beach towards us! They must know they need to go home but playfully manoeuvred few steps then stopped and wondering around for a bit. Luckily the direction is there,  despite the stumbling and fumbling over the rocks, they just don’t give a sh*t if they face-plant the floor to get to their burrows. The next wave of penguins come, then the next…..

Little blue penguin time – casual visitor

We didn’t expect any moving things more than 50cm on the beach. All of the sudden, an enormous black shadow pop out from the water. What was that? We had our casual visitor tonight – a seal! And it must be a young one full of energy. He was playfully tracing the sea gulls and the blue penguins. Haha, the seal, the blue penguins and the sea gulls gave us a joyful performance. With the dim lights toward the beach, rain cleared up and the serene seashore, I truly melted into that moment. I am privileged to see the amazing creatures embrace our mother nature.

By the end of the night, the tour guide counted more than 91 penguins!!!  Good night, little penguins, the playful seal and stately albatross.

Friday:

Despite working and exercising beyond my full capacity in the past several days, the weekend is approaching. I shared few messages with Pheebs on Friday afternoon, the excitement started building up. Few 🐧🐧🐧🐧🐧🐧🐧🐧emojis from her. Haha, yes we are going to see the penguins, the albatrosses, the blended Maori and Scottish culture in the South Island!!! The girls getaway weekend trip starts in few hours.

Thanks to her hubby my good friend Bingbing dropped us to the airport. The girls trip starts officially. The desserts in the domestic lounge warmed us, and the matching hats Pheebs bought us bring lots lighthearted moments. Thanks sister 🎩🎩 the pink one suits you very well and I love the blue one.

When we landed in Dunedin, the temperature was just about right plus the bonus of no WIND no WIND and no WIND, we nestled into a comfortable spring evening. The compact Holden Spark is the right size for us for the next two days. We are staying at the pacific park hotel which just few hills past the center of this quaint and beautiful city.

Quickly checked in, we drove to the centre of the city centre, the churches in my memories became alive. And again we both amazed by tranquility in this city. Well we can only say it until we went to the bar for a drink. Luckily the tourist spot doesn’t quiet lure the young students. One drink is more than enough for a good night sleep 💤