Today is a big day for Ryan. We are taking him to the Hooker Valley Track, which is conveniently located right next to the campground. We believe he’s ready for this over 10 km trail, as he’s successfully completed a couple of 8 km tracks without any issues.
The camper van we chose did its job well, keeping us warm with its turbo heating system last night. We even watched a movie before bed. This morning, the indicators show that both the water tank and the electricity still have 50% capacity!
We leisurely had our big breakfast and packed enough food and drinks for the track, anticipating about four hours in the snowy mountains. And off we go—we’re on our way to the fist bridge.
Tip 11: Although this track is marked as easy, it can still be challenging during the winter season. Some parts of the track can be very slippery, as we are experiencing today.
Hello snowman Olaf!
The track includes three swing bridges. Distance from White Horse Hill carpark to lookout: 1 km.
The first 700 m of the track passes close to the Alpine Memorial (a great viewpoint) and Freda’s Rock before coming to the viewing point of the Mueller Lake lookout and the first swing bridge.
The distance from the first to the second swing bridge is 1.5 km. We thoroughly enjoyed the views over Mueller Lake and listened to the rumbling of avalanche from distant Mount Sefton. Yes, we saw an avalanche today and even spotted a glimpse of the blue glacier.
Distance from second swing bridge to Hooker Lake: 2.5 km via third swing bridge. Hooker Lake, the source of the Hooker River.
The track ends with an amazing view over the iceberg-speckled Hooker Lake and up to majestic Aoraki/Mount Cook and the Southern Alps/Kā Tiritiri o te Moana.
On our way back, I looked at my little man. He can now walk a 10 km trail, and just four years ago, he was on my back on this very track. Time flies!
Photo taken in 2020
It took us four and a half hours to get back to our camper van. It was a stretch for Ryan but very rewarding! He fell asleep quickly as we drove to Omarama.
Bye, my place. I told John that Mount Cook holds a special place in my heart. I see the remoteness and ruggedness, but most importantly, I see its softness. The gentle morning light casts a delicate golden glow over the land, illuminating every hill and valley. At night, the dark skies fill with stars, twinkling from a million miles away, reminding us of the beauty and mystery of the universe.
It has been four years since our last visit, when we had only 7-month-old Ryan and were still getting used to being new parents with John. This time, the experience feels much calmer and more fulfilling.
Day 1: Landed in Queenstown
We landed in Queenstown, welcomed by fresh snow. The first day was challenging due to our flight delay, adjusting to the cold, and settling into the campervan. Yes, we hired a campervan again—it’s small but cozy, perfect for the season.
Tip 1: During our trips, we’ve often chosen to hire from Maui Rentals, particularly their Queenstown location. You can find more about their offerings here. For our family, the 2+1 Berth Ultima Plus model has been perfect. The turbo heating system kept us warm even during freedom camping in the snowy mountains.
Tip 2: Set up your camper’s system as soon as possible to stay organized in a small space. When everything has a designated place, it makes living in a small area much more pleasant. For more details, check out my previous post, “Campervan Travel with a Baby.”
The fresh snow, clear sky, and the last traces of autumn wowed Ryan the next morning. He played in the tiny patches of frost and ice around our campervan for a while. As we traveled to Te Anau, he kept saying, “Mummy, I want to build a snowman like Olaf!”
Day 2: Queenstown to Te Anau
Tip 3: Big4 Holiday Parks in Australia and Top 10 Holiday Parks in New Zealand are part of the same company, and their memberships are interchangeable.
Stepping onto the shore of Lake Te Anau near the entry point of the Kepler Track on a sunny late autumn afternoon, we found ourselves alone with just the three of us. The pristine waters gently lapped at the shore, enveloping us in a sense of tranquility that felt like being wrapped in a warm hug.
Back at the campsite, I sat watching the sunset, basking in the soft rays of sunlight filtering through. In that serene moment, time seemed to unfold in silent harmony, embracing me with its gentle beauty.
Tip 4: Although Google Maps might estimate a 2-hour drive, plan for a longer journey to enjoy some spectacular stops long this scenic route.
Day 3: Te Anau to Milford Sound
To the mysterious fiords of Milford Sound is the bucket list of this trip. The last visit was nine years ago and many of memories have faded.
It’s raining today, but we actually appreciate it because it means more spectacular waterfalls on our way to Fiordland National Park. As we drive through Eglinton Valley, carved by glaciers thousands of years ago, long and narrow stretches of road cut through the vast golden tussock-covered valley on either side, with mountains towering all around. I was literally crying, amazed by the breathtaking view. Ryan and I ran through the golden valley, eager to get closer to the mountains.
We missed the Lake Marian Track today because the rain grew heavier. There’s always some disappointment on the road. However, our next stop, Monkey Creek, offered another picturesque view. I learned a couple of days later that Monkey Creek is a glacier-fed spring located in the Hollyford Valley, with water so pure you can fill up a bottle and drink straight from the source. Missing this experience gives me enough reason to return in a couple of years.
As we passed through the Homer Tunnel, we stopped at the Milford Valley Lookout. According to Ryan, and rightly so, it could be called “Hundred Falls”—the view was incredible. We were also greeted by kea, fascinating and threatened birds with colorful feathers hidden beneath their wings.
Tip 5: Check out this blog for 17 scenic stops on the drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound.
Tip 6: We deliberately chose to travel to Milford Sound on a rainy day to see the countless waterfalls along the way.
We slept in a four-star holiday park in Milford Sound. The only one accommodation in Milford Sound.I was amazed by its facilities, shocked by the prices at the PioPio restaurant, and annoyed by the poor internet connection. But it makes sense; we are, after all, in the middle of nowhere.
Tip 7: Fill up your tank when leaving Te Anau, download the maps, and if you are traveling with kids, have some downloaded stories and videos ready. They can be really handy.
Day 4: Cruise in Milford Sound and travel back to Te Anau
The following day was one of the rare sunny days in Milford Sound!
Some fun facts about Fiordland and Milford Sound: Located in the southwest corner of New Zealand, Fiordland is known for its dramatic landscapes, epic hiking trails, and spectacularly beautiful fiords, most of which are difficult to access due to their remote locations and challenging terrain. Of the 14 fiords, Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound are the most popular due to their accessibility. Despite their name, Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound are technically fiords formed by the movement of glaciers over thousands of years. In New Zealand, all maritime fiords use “sound” in their names and are spelled “fiord” rather than “fjord.” The landscape in Milford Sound is more dramatic, with taller mountain peaks and rougher, more jagged edges. It’s home to Bowen and Stirling Falls, the two largest and most impressive waterfalls among all the smaller falls streaming down the mountains. Milford Sound attracts more people than Doubtful Sound because it is the only fiord with direct road access where you can drive yourself.
We chose a smaller cruise this time called Mitre Peak Cruise. It was a great experience because it had fewer people onboard, and the smaller boat could get closer to the falls. Yes, we all got wet and were amazed by the power of the waterfall! Thank goodness for the sunny day! I can’t imagine if it had been raining. John spent the entire two hours outside taking photos. His camera was completely out of battery by the end!
Tip 8: I was worried that Ryan and I would get seasick on the cruise, but we didn’t. Most people should be fine with the beautiful views and fresh air on the boat.
LucyMay 