You may be wondering why we travel in a loop and don’t rush to all places. Some context might help: we’ve traveled in the South Island four times already and have pretty much explored all the places. This time around, we only wanted to visit two places: Milford Sound and Mount Cook. These two are my favorites, especially Mount Cook. With a young kid, we also didn’t want to exhaust ourselves with long driving times, as tiredness can quickly elevate anxiety.
The magic of travel lies in the unexpected moments. These photos were captured during a toilet break near Lowburn Harbour Camping site, close to Cromwell. The interplay of light and water, coupled with John’s research paper (which extended our breaks as he finalized it during the first half of our journey), unveiled this natural beauty.
Day 6: Wānaka to Mt Cook via Lindis Pass
We are traveling from Central Otago to the Mackenzie Basin via Lindis Pass. We’ve seen this alpine area of tall, tussock-covered mountains in every season, but we can’t resist taking more pictures each time. This time, we did a little more—exploring the undulating terrain by walking on the slope for half an hour. The view is splendid.
Tip 10: Although there are no formally marked tracks in the Lindis Conservation Area, everyone is welcome to explore the undulating terrain. It’s also possible to walk, mountain bike or horse ride across private land to the Lindis River via Smiths Creek. This route begins is on the Tarras side of the pass – look for the parking area.Remember that this is an exposed alpine area and the weather can be unpredictable. Ensure you carry warm, windproof clothing and appropriate footwear.
As we passed through Twizel, the largest town in the Mackenzie region, we made a stop at High Country Salmon to buy a few fillets for tonight’s dinner. We know our favorite place just around the corner—White Horse Hill Campground, where we’ll be camping tonight.
Dinner was fulfilling, and the view was just unbeatable! We even watched the moon rise. As night approached, the sky and the mountains revealed their mystery and romance.
Good night and sweet dreams! Tomorrow is going to be a big day!
It has been four years since our last visit, when we had only 7-month-old Ryan and were still getting used to being new parents with John. This time, the experience feels much calmer and more fulfilling.
Day 1: Landed in Queenstown
We landed in Queenstown, welcomed by fresh snow. The first day was challenging due to our flight delay, adjusting to the cold, and settling into the campervan. Yes, we hired a campervan again—it’s small but cozy, perfect for the season.
Tip 1: During our trips, we’ve often chosen to hire from Maui Rentals, particularly their Queenstown location. You can find more about their offerings here. For our family, the 2+1 Berth Ultima Plus model has been perfect. The turbo heating system kept us warm even during freedom camping in the snowy mountains.
Tip 2: Set up your camper’s system as soon as possible to stay organized in a small space. When everything has a designated place, it makes living in a small area much more pleasant. For more details, check out my previous post, “Campervan Travel with a Baby.”
The fresh snow, clear sky, and the last traces of autumn wowed Ryan the next morning. He played in the tiny patches of frost and ice around our campervan for a while. As we traveled to Te Anau, he kept saying, “Mummy, I want to build a snowman like Olaf!”
Day 2: Queenstown to Te Anau
Tip 3: Big4 Holiday Parks in Australia and Top 10 Holiday Parks in New Zealand are part of the same company, and their memberships are interchangeable.
Stepping onto the shore of Lake Te Anau near the entry point of the Kepler Track on a sunny late autumn afternoon, we found ourselves alone with just the three of us. The pristine waters gently lapped at the shore, enveloping us in a sense of tranquility that felt like being wrapped in a warm hug.
Back at the campsite, I sat watching the sunset, basking in the soft rays of sunlight filtering through. In that serene moment, time seemed to unfold in silent harmony, embracing me with its gentle beauty.
Tip 4: Although Google Maps might estimate a 2-hour drive, plan for a longer journey to enjoy some spectacular stops long this scenic route.
Day 3: Te Anau to Milford Sound
To the mysterious fiords of Milford Sound is the bucket list of this trip. The last visit was nine years ago and many of memories have faded.
It’s raining today, but we actually appreciate it because it means more spectacular waterfalls on our way to Fiordland National Park. As we drive through Eglinton Valley, carved by glaciers thousands of years ago, long and narrow stretches of road cut through the vast golden tussock-covered valley on either side, with mountains towering all around. I was literally crying, amazed by the breathtaking view. Ryan and I ran through the golden valley, eager to get closer to the mountains.
We missed the Lake Marian Track today because the rain grew heavier. There’s always some disappointment on the road. However, our next stop, Monkey Creek, offered another picturesque view. I learned a couple of days later that Monkey Creek is a glacier-fed spring located in the Hollyford Valley, with water so pure you can fill up a bottle and drink straight from the source. Missing this experience gives me enough reason to return in a couple of years.
As we passed through the Homer Tunnel, we stopped at the Milford Valley Lookout. According to Ryan, and rightly so, it could be called “Hundred Falls”—the view was incredible. We were also greeted by kea, fascinating and threatened birds with colorful feathers hidden beneath their wings.
Tip 5: Check out this blog for 17 scenic stops on the drive from Te Anau to Milford Sound.
Tip 6: We deliberately chose to travel to Milford Sound on a rainy day to see the countless waterfalls along the way.
We slept in a four-star holiday park in Milford Sound. The only one accommodation in Milford Sound.I was amazed by its facilities, shocked by the prices at the PioPio restaurant, and annoyed by the poor internet connection. But it makes sense; we are, after all, in the middle of nowhere.
Tip 7: Fill up your tank when leaving Te Anau, download the maps, and if you are traveling with kids, have some downloaded stories and videos ready. They can be really handy.
Day 4: Cruise in Milford Sound and travel back to Te Anau
The following day was one of the rare sunny days in Milford Sound!
Some fun facts about Fiordland and Milford Sound: Located in the southwest corner of New Zealand, Fiordland is known for its dramatic landscapes, epic hiking trails, and spectacularly beautiful fiords, most of which are difficult to access due to their remote locations and challenging terrain. Of the 14 fiords, Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound are the most popular due to their accessibility. Despite their name, Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound are technically fiords formed by the movement of glaciers over thousands of years. In New Zealand, all maritime fiords use “sound” in their names and are spelled “fiord” rather than “fjord.” The landscape in Milford Sound is more dramatic, with taller mountain peaks and rougher, more jagged edges. It’s home to Bowen and Stirling Falls, the two largest and most impressive waterfalls among all the smaller falls streaming down the mountains. Milford Sound attracts more people than Doubtful Sound because it is the only fiord with direct road access where you can drive yourself.
We chose a smaller cruise this time called Mitre Peak Cruise. It was a great experience because it had fewer people onboard, and the smaller boat could get closer to the falls. Yes, we all got wet and were amazed by the power of the waterfall! Thank goodness for the sunny day! I can’t imagine if it had been raining. John spent the entire two hours outside taking photos. His camera was completely out of battery by the end!
Tip 8: I was worried that Ryan and I would get seasick on the cruise, but we didn’t. Most people should be fine with the beautiful views and fresh air on the boat.
LucyMay 