Church of Holy Sepulchre- centuries of tradition and gaudy decorations cover up the impact of the historical event

The Scriptures testify to the empty tomb of Jesus the Messiah and His bodily resurrection from the dead.  The Church of the Holy Sepulchre has been overlayed with centuries of construction, damage from wars; the Crusades; earthquake damage, lots of church building and ornate and elaborate decoration, and gaudy statuary and idolatry, in order to mark spots of certain events surrounding the crucifixion of Christ, to accommodate pilgrims.

Several different church communities are in charge of different areas of the church today.

人生必去一次的聖墓教堂 Church of Holy Sepulchre

http://www.generationword.com/jerusalem101/52-holy-sepulcher.html

We went to the Church twice. The first time we went there, inevitably we waited nearly an hour and half to visit the tomb. After the visiting we decided to come here early in the morning to get closer look not to the tomb but the other parts of the complex. The next day we went to the Church early about 7:00am the line visiting the tomb was almost the same. Pilgrims around the World, with the elaborate decorations, statues and icons of Jesus and Mary; lamps, candles, and external worship and kissing of artifacts and bowing to statues. I said to Yunhan that it is not right all truly go against the Biblical principle in John 4:19-24.

19 “Sir,” the woman said, “I can see that you are a prophet. 20 Our ancestors worshiped on this mountain, but you Jews claim that the place where we must worship is in Jerusalem.”

21 “Woman,” Jesus replied, “believe me, a time is coming when you will worship the Father neither on this mountain nor in Jerusalem. 22 You Samaritans worship what you do not know; we worship what we do know, for salvation is from the Jews. 23 Yet a time is coming and has now come when the true worshipers will worship the Father in the Spirit and in truth, for they are the kind of worshipers the Father seeks. 24 God is spirit, and his worshipers must worship in the Spirit and in truth.”

Well undeniable the architecture here is really impressive despite the gaudy decorations. Some cross marks left during crusades time, Helena’s Church, story of Adam Church underneath Calvary, centre of the universe, place where three Mary standing…… there are so many biblical stories and fine details to trace and discover. Even for the second time visit, we spent another good two hours there.

They we went to the Garden tomb where the most Protestants believe the venue is the place that was expressed in the Gospel accounts. Well standing in the beautiful and tranquil surroundings, I am thinking the actual place is not so important anymore. We are neither an archaeologist nor historian, something we can never fully comprehend, therefore we can neither prove its existence nor fiction. Believe is all we need to do.

The Temple Mount (Haram Al-Sharif)

Arguably the most holy place in the city. It has major significance to all 3 religions (Islam – The rock under the dome is where the Prophet Muhammad left Earth to visit heaven on a winged horse during his night journey in the 7th Century; Judaism – the Temple Mount was the location of the the First Temple built by King Solomon in 957 BC to house the Ark of the Covenant (which held the Ten Commandments) in a special room called “The Holy of Holies”; and Christianity – where Jesus prayed daily & later preached with his disciples).

Today on the Temple Mount complex, 2 important Islamic structures, the most dazzling building in Jerusalem Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque. Although Israel took control of the Old City in 1967, but Muslims continue to manage the site. And that makes the site is a controversial & culturally significant place.

Maybe it was in the morning, so called Airport level security check above the Wailing wall access wasn’t so scary however I have been asked to put on the cotton wrap to enter the site.

Surprisingly we saw a group of Jews guarded by armed Israeli soldiers visiting the site. Later on we knew the Jews can visit the site with permission but can’t pray there. Well, with the group of Jews and armed soldiers, there is definitely tension in the air, but it didn’t feel overly dangerous. I was thinking can religious conflicts be avoided. I remembered my bible study teacher said we live in this world but not of the world. We can and have to live in this world, enjoy/suffer God’s creation, but we are not to immerse ourselves in what the world values, nor are we to chase after worldly pleasures. If our goal is to worship God and shed lights in someway to others, then the religious conflict should be avoided at least to Christians. Or it can’t be avoided because we are unique in our ways and we have our own convictions based on our upbringing that becomes a factor in the foundation of our development. In every belief even within the same religion, there is a either large or small contradiction (胡思亂想中）

Mount of Olives

【耶路撒冷景點懶人包】橄欖山半日遊：升天教堂、主禱文教堂、橄欖山觀景台、先知墓、主泣教堂、猶太墓、客西馬尼園、萬國教堂、童女馬利亞墓、抹大拉的瑪利亞教堂

The most expensive Jewish Cemetery is there they all wish when the judgement day comes they will come out of their resting places then into the holy town. With religious beliefs and traditions we all can easily find a purpose to live in this world of contentment and not afraid of physical death.

Mount Zion

【耶路撒冷景點懶人包】錫安山半日遊：雞鳴教堂、聖母安眠教堂、大衛陵寢、最後晚餐樓、(辛特勒的墓)

Church Saint-Peter in Gallicantu: luckily we were in a small sermon service in Sacred Pit (dungeon) / caves (prison), where Jesus was kept. The pastor asked people what do you feel when you are in the cave without any lights, complete darkness. Do you still believe in Jesus our God will lead us to the righteousness, to the light. Sometime we said we will and we fully understand in fact we are not. Like Peter denied three times that he knew Jesus before the rooster crows. I am thinking only with the gratification and appreciation, we can be less self centred then we can slowly understand what is true love!

“Jews may often be seen sitting for hours at the Wailing-place bent in sorrowful meditation over the history of their race, and repeating often times the words of the Seventy-ninth Psalm. On Fridays especially, Jews of both genders, of all ages, and from all countries, assemble in large numbers to kiss the sacred stones and weep outside the precincts they may not enter” Charles Wilson, 1881.

Kotel, Western wall, Wailing wall:

Watching Jewish prayer and pilgrimage meditating on this 187 foot exposed section of the ancient wall and placing written prayer into a crevice of the wall is an experience cannot be felt by the words in any textbook or YouTube clips.

What is special about Western wall?

The wall has withstood time and has witnessed war and peace. Long before the first temple was built, Abraham came here to sacrifice his son Isaac, and Jacob slept here, dreaming of a ladder to heaven.

Then called Mount Moriah, its summit was where Solomon built the First Temple on the land that his father King David bought from Aravnah, the Jebusite, 3,000 years ago. Then the Babylonians destroyed it in 586 BC. and the Jews were expelled from the land of Israel. They were allowed to return 70 years later and built the Second Temple.

King Herod (who ruled 37-4 BC) decided to rebuild that in 19 BC. He had a problem, though: the Temple was on the peak of a mountain where there was limited space. Herod, who was known for huge building projects (such as the port at Caesarea, and his palace at Masada), decided to build four massive supporting walls around the mountain and transform it into a level platform. Which he did, and built the next Temple on the new platform. And inside the temple was the holy of the holies, It contained only the Ark of the Covenant, the symbol of Israel’s special relationship with God.

In 70 AD, during the Jewish rebellion against the Romans, Jerusalem was conquered and the Temple destroyed.

After the rebellion, Jews were not allowed to return to the Temple mound and the Kotel (Western Wall) was the closest they could come to that area. The Western Wall is the most sacred, because the Temple (and its inner Holy of Holies) had been built closest to that wall. Since then, the Western Wall has been the center of Jewish belief. For Jews, touching the stones links them with their nation and heritage, and their long turbulent history.

Western wall tunnel: highly recommended

Like the tip of an iceberg, the Western Wall plaza represents only a small part of the whole picture. Most of the Kotel lies buried beneath the rubble of time and hasn’t seen the light of day for centuries. The tunnel exposes a total length of 485 m of the wall, revealing the methods of construction and the various activities in the vicinity of the Temple Mount.

From first temple to second temple to later bazentine period and crusade time, the complex hadn’t been destroyed, on the contrary you can easily find two walls next to each other but thousand years apart. How fascinating it is! Our guide joked that recycling was not invented recently, actually 2000 years ago.

Every wall must have two sides – The Jewish Archeological Park

Another spectacular site to see how magnificent the wall it is and trace some visible signs of previous market places, arches and pavement which had been later on destroyed by the Romans.

It is a pretty much wall sights seeing day also overwhelmed with so much history concentrated in one place, we were quietly sitting in the staircases between its timeless stones and enjoyed the sunset over Mount Zion.

“The truth is that Bethlehem, the ‘little town’ venerated during Christmas, is one of the most contentious places on Earth.” – Michael Finkel

Part 1: Church of the Nativity – a typical shopping mall the day before Christmas experience.

It was not a peaceful place and nothing like the scene I imagined the day that Christ was born. With the huge lines, people pushing their way forward, I now understand where the hustles and bustles of the Christmas holidays come from nowadays.

Joke aside, we actually thoroughly googled everything we need to know about the Church. How it has survived 14 centuries of conquests by Persians, Byzantines, Muslims, Crusaders, Ottomans, Jordanians, Brits and Israelis. How the front door was lowered and how everything is magically planned by our God.

After nearly an hour waiting and emerging ourselves from all the pilgrims from around the world, we were excited to see the actual birthplace of our Lord. When we were in the cave, I was wondering maybe the waiting, the hustles and bustles is part of God’s plan, to teach us how to quiet ourselves in the midst of chaos.

Part 2: How ironic that the birthplace of the Prince of Peace is in fact a veritable prison.

We planned to leave Bethlehem before 6:00pm, with the huge line and few detours on our first stop, we only have an hour and bit. Without hesitation, we took the cab to the Separation wall and Banksy’s Graffiti work.

Yes you read number of articles about the wall but nothing like you were truely there. I just feel sad. A Palestinian born within the city limits has the mathematical possibility of never being able to legally live the city. Bethlehem does not just feel like a prison, it is a prison! I truely puzzled this time, is this a part of God’s plan?

Part 3: Walking toward the check point

I am fairly sure the alley towards the check point is safe but I am sacred especially only two of us walking on the street while others either taking private vehicles or buses and some palestine peddler yelling “你好”.

Some unlucky ones have been thoroughly checked and inspected by soldiers like the older couple in front of us. When we were cleared and passed the check point, just in time bus 234 is right there. I feel safe and relieved but the sadness kept lingering in my mind until now.

Route 90 is the longest Israel and Palestinian road, at about 480 kilometres (300 mi), and stretches from Metulla and the northern border with Lebanon, along the western side of the Sea of Galilee,through the Jordan Ricer Valley, along the western bank of the Dead Sea (making it the world’s lowest road), through the Araban valley, and until Eilat and the southern border with Egypt on the Red Sea.

I have never had any safety concerns until one particular statement on a post caught my eye: “在公路上，若不幸遭到恐攻，以色列政府也會賠償的” as we are driving in the darkness – 4am in the morning with poor visibility, my heart was rising until the first sight of Dead Sea in early dawn.

Dead Sea at dawn

The moment I saw the first ray of sun breaks through the cloud and has risen over the Jordanian mountains, I cried, felt and knew where the heaven is.

Masada shall not fall again

This ancient city was built by “Jonathan the High priest”, at least according to Josephus. It was ruled by King Herod, who was the King of Judea. It was an ancient Roman style fortress. It features not just the palace, main fortress and living quarters but camps by the base and an assault ramp. It is believed to be the most complete surviving ancient Roman siege system in the world.

What happened here – mass suicide: Masada was the last remaining Jewish rebel stronghold in Judea in the year 73 AD. When the Romans with their 8000 troops building camps all around the base of the mountain. One of the Jewish leaders, Eleazar Ben Yair gave speeches to the 960 people living on Masada and told them that suicide was the way forward. When the Romans came to the top these were two women and five children, who had been hiding in the cisterns. Everyone else was dead. A sad and chilling story, hard to imagine over this ruined ancient fortification, but the legacy remains in the Israeli army with the declaration “Masada shall not fall again”.

I am actually floating in the Dead Sea

Yes yes, I am actually floating and the sea water is incredible salty – verified.

Eilat is where Israelis come to relax

We finally arrived Eilat, the southern border city with Egypt and Jordan on the Red Sea. Tiring tiring tiring, it is just a transit city!

Looking forward to the next phase of this trip: Jordan

The Sea of Galilee, which is in fact a lake has so much to offer: pristine beauty, hiking trails, religious attractions, and historical sites.

Our first stop: the Mount of Beatitudes, site of the Sermon on the Mount. Followed by the site of the Feeding of the 5000; Tabgha and the German Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and the Fish. And the Primacy of St Peter. Amazingly I am at the places where those events occurred and those are no longer just stories from my year and half bible study. If you asked me any reflections, to be honestly there was only the amazements of the Churches art value.

Those three places are the must go to places of Galilee’s religious tour. We were surrounded by many devout believers around the worlds and they are also part of the scene at least in our eyes.

We still have two more Christian sites on the list. But in between we headed to the Arbel National Park. Well it has the two elements we enjoy namely hike and the stunning view. Plus the bonus of a glimpse of history: fortress and caves actually on the cliffs. Tiring but rewarding!

Then we rushed to the Mt Tabor. At 1,900 feet above sea level, Mount Tabor (also called Mount Tavor) is believed to be the site of the transfiguration, when according to the Gospels of Mark, Matthew and Luke, Jesus took the disciples Peter, James and John to see an apparition of Moses and Elijah.

The last site is Yardenit– Here, where the Jordan River flows from the Sea of Galilee southwards to the Dead Sea, it is believed that Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist (“Yardenit” is the diminutive form of the name of the Jordan River in Hebrew). Standing on the shore watching scores of pilgrims wear white robes and get baptised in the same spot. Maybe the warmth of afternoon sun, maybe the atmosphere of spirituality, I somehow connected to the holy land – being happy by focusing on the eternal life, therefore so called hardship in this life becomes less important. Yes on this spot I can feel the happiness from sisters and brothers!

It is a such busy day packed with spiritual experience and fun. To finish with famous St. Peter’s fish, delicious lamb Kabab and a great variety of side dishes, today is the day!

Don’t be wise in your own eyes; fear the LORD and shun evil. Proverbs 3:7

Stop 1: Greek Orthodox Church of the Annunciation

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_Orthodox_Church_of_the_Annunciation

https://www.goarch.org/-/tradition-in-the-orthodox-church

http://www.nazarethinfo.org/en/attractions/religious-sites/greek-orthodox-announciation-church

The church has three names, each of which gives us a different piece of information about it.

Mary’s Well Church and St. Gabriel Church

Gabriel is the angel who told Mary that she was carrying the son of God. In the church, a spring flows, giving it the name Mary’s Well Church (the water flows underground from the church to a well 140 meters away from the church).

Orthodox Church of Annunciation

Its main name comes from a tradition that the James was the brother of Jesus from the first marriage of Joseph. He was the leader of Jerusalem’s community of the followers of Jesus, and therefore is considered to be the first bishop of Jerusalem. In the Gospel of James it is relayed that the angel Gabriel blessed Mary at the well, but she was frightened and ran home. Here he announced that she was carrying the son of God.

At the spot where Gabriel meets Mary, there stands the Orthodox church, and at spot of her house stands the Catholic Church. These two Churches are very different from one another: statues versus icon paintings on the wall; visible altar and hidden behind a wall with icons.

I think I must be culturally overwhelmed on the scene and only right now – quite time before bed can reflect and appreciate the traditions.

Stop 2: The Mary of Nazareth international Centre

Picture the everyday life of Mary and Jesus plus the tranquil Chapel to worship and meditate the mystery of Salvation.

Stop 3: Sea of Galiliee first encounter Capharnaum the town of Jesus

This place is the first church in the world and is the house of Peter. Here Jesus said to Peter, “I will also say to you: You are Peter, and on this rock I will build my church, and the gates of hell will not be strengthened.”

Akko old city – wonderful place with extremely rich history and amazing vibe

Old City of Acre was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. https://www.touristisrael.com/akko-acre-israel/1123/When I saw a picture of old Acre walls from sea two months ago I knew instantly this is the must visit place!

Narrow winding lanes capped with arches remembering Crusaders times, the Old Town surrounded by the impressive wall, the harbor with colorful boats, the busy local souq – Akko brought us the first wow factor for the day.

It is the place not only concerning knights but life in the city.

Nazareth 1 – Basilica of the Annunciation

The Church of Annunciation is built where it’s believed the angel Gabriel announced the news from God, that the Virgin Mary was pregnant with His son. Standing in this largest church building in the Middle East and watching over the cave that Mary had lived I was thinking two questions, was it all true and why the shrine has to be this magnificent.

Well latterly the on-site archeological museum curator Edward – a Nazareth born humble believer answered my questions by simply said “believe without seeing” and showed me the “Hail Mary” Greek graffiti. He told me that current Church constructed in 1969 over the site of an earlier Byzantine-era and then Crusader-era church. Underneath was the first shrine built sometime in the middle of the 4th century followed by a larger structure was commissioned by Emperor Constantine I who had directed his mother, Saint Helena.

After talking to Edward I somehow thought “The Word was made flesh, and dwelt among us” (John 1:14). Human nature as opposed to the divine, and material nature as opposed to the spiritual, and for this reason we human unavoidable live in this paradox.

Driving Etiquette – Israel

Driving was pretty damn hard – among its violent and often destructive drivers and opposite direction compared to NZ, we have to pay an extra attention. Few close calls but safely arrived in Haifa.

Haifa – 法海是個很欠兒的和尚，海法是個很破的城市

A little bit disappointed by its almost everywhere uncovered rubbish stations and everywhere rubbish. It is Israel third largest city, a busy working port where Jews and Arabs live in relative harmony, and one of the centers of the nation’s renowned high-technology industries – Haifa residents are proud of their industrious image.

We visited some have to visiting places such as Baha’i Gardens and Mount Carmel. There must be the jet lag and unavoidable long haul flight fatigue, the scenery in our eyes is okay but definitely lack of wow factor.

The wow factor for the day must be my first shisha experience and delicious lamb kebab.

Hope fast jet lag recovery and full of wow factors amazements within next day’s itinerary.

Day 1 Wellington Auckland Bangkok Tel Aviv

It is a long day and it is a long way, two 12 hours long haul flights are tiring but it is a treasure to a dedicated “NZ public servant” who only slept less than 9 hours in the past two days. John said I was in sleep coma and yes I slept more than 15 hours. Well here I am 30000 feet above Red Sea writing my day 1 doodles and about 2 hours to the holy land.

Highlight 1: 1st Israel encounter – it is not just an airline it is Israel

We have been thoroughly investigated by an Israel security officer when we were in the transfer counter in Bangkok. Or precisely saying we have been thoroughly and separately investigated by a stern Israel security officer and his not so strict colleague for about 20 minutes. One mid-aged couple from somewhere very near Tel Aviv city centre were standing right behind us, they were irritated by the officers questions and not so friendly manner. They apologised to us on behalf of their people and provided their contact number in Israel, told us if whenever we need help just give them a call. Thanks Ilan and Judy.

Highlight 2: 1st Israel meal – with certification of kashruth

Flight meal with certification, simple but very refreshing.

Satisfied stomach and refreshed mind, I think I am ready for the must be wonderful holiday!

May it be thy will, Load of heaven and Earth, to lead us to peace and safety. To fly us to our desired destination, to find life, joy and peace. Amen